Pre-Offer Inspection Checklist

The listing said move-in ready. The inspector found 1962 wiring.

It was still live — behind a brand-new smart thermostat. That is the pattern this checklist is built around: fresh paint, new fixtures, and smart devices can sit on top of systems that are decades old. None of that shows up in listing photos, and some of it affects safety, insurability, and what you should pay.

This guide is a starting point. Every property and every contract is different — always consult licensed inspectors, contractors, insurance agents, and attorneys before making any real estate decision.

Before you write the offer.

The inspection period is short. The buyers who use it well start their homework before the contract is signed.

• Read the seller’s disclosure in full. Note anything marked “unknown.” In Florida, sellers of residential property must also provide a statutory flood disclosure (prior flooding, flood claims, and flood-damage assistance). New Jersey sellers must provide a flood risk disclosure as well. Ask follow-up questions in writing.
• Pull the permit history. Check with the city or county building department (in Florida) or the municipal construction office (in New Jersey). Look for open or expired permits and for renovations with no permits at all. A “new kitchen” with no permit record is a question worth asking.
• Ask the age of the big four: roof, HVAC, water heater, electrical panel. Request receipts, permits, and warranties. “Updated” is not a date.
• Get a homeowners insurance quote early. In Florida especially, roof age, electrical panel type, and plumbing material can affect whether a home is insurable and at what price. Some carriers require a 4-point and wind mitigation report before binding.
• Ask for a CLUE report. A seller can request a Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange report showing prior insurance claims on the property — water, roof, and wind claims are all useful to know about.
• Know your inspection window. It is set by your contract and is often 10 to 15 days in Florida; in New Jersey it is typically negotiated during attorney review. Confirm the exact deadline and calendar it.
• Line up your inspectors before you sign. General home inspector, plus a wood-destroying organism (termite) inspection in Florida, a sewer scope, and any specialists the home’s age suggests.

Electrical — the system cosmetic updates hide best.

New outlets, switches, light fixtures, and smart devices are easy to install on old wiring. These are the items to identify.

• Identify the panel brand, age, and amperage. Ask for the photo from your inspector’s report and the permit date if it was replaced.
• Identify the wiring type, not just the outlets. Ask whether the home was fully rewired, partially rewired, or only had devices replaced. “Updated electrical” can mean any of the three.
• Test outlets for ground and correct polarity. A three-prong outlet with no ground behind it is a common finding in older homes.
• Check GFCI protection in kitchens, baths, garages, exterior, and near pools.
• Look for DIY work. Exposed splices, extension-cord wiring, double-tapped breakers, and missing cover plates.
• Book a licensed electrician if anything is flagged. Get a written evaluation and estimate inside your inspection window.

Note: Wiring era ranges are approximate. Only a licensed electrician can confirm what is behind the walls and what it will take to correct it.

Roof — the number your insurer will ask for first.

• Confirm the roof’s age with a permit date. Insurers commonly rely on the permit record, not the seller’s recollection.
• Know the material and what that means. Tile, shingle, metal, and flat roofs age differently. On tile roofs, the underlayment often wears out before the tiles do.
• Look for cracked, slipped, or lifted tiles or shingles, soft spots, and failed flashing.
• Check ceilings and the attic for stains, daylight, and moisture. A single freshly painted ceiling patch deserves a moisture reading.
• In New Jersey: ask how many layers of shingles, and check chimney flashing, gutters, and signs of ice-dam damage.
• Get a roofer’s estimate of remaining life if the report or insurer raises the issue.

Plumbing — what the pipes are made of matters.

• Order a sewer scope. A camera inspection of the main drain to the street or septic — especially for older homes and lots with mature trees.
• Check the water heater’s age from its data plate or serial number. Look for a drain pan, a proper relief-valve discharge line, and signs of corrosion.
• Look under every sink and around toilets for active or past leaks.
• Private well or septic? Schedule water testing and a septic inspection. New Jersey’s Private Well Testing Act requires well water testing as part of the sale of homes with private wells.

HVAC — a new thermostat says nothing about the system.

• Read the age from the data plate on the condenser and air handler (or furnace/boiler).
• Ask for service records. In South Florida, heat, humidity, and salt air shorten equipment life.
• Check the refrigerant type. Older systems using R-22 can be costly to service; production of R-22 ended in the U.S. in 2020.
• Inspect the condensate drain line, pan, and safety float switch. A clogged AC drain is one of the most common sources of water damage in Florida homes.
• Look at the air handler closet and ducts for rust, moisture, or visible growth.
• In New Jersey: have the heating system serviced and evaluated. Note oil vs. gas, chimney liner condition, and any old pipe or duct insulation that may contain asbestos.

Water intrusion and mold.

• Ask your inspector to use a moisture meter and, if offered, thermal imaging.
• Look for stains, bubbled paint, swollen baseboards, and musty odors.
• Check windows and sliding doors for leaks and failed seals.
• Look for efflorescence (white residue) or cracking on block or stucco walls.
• In New Jersey: check the basement for water lines, a sump pump, grading, and running dehumidifiers.
• If mold is suspected, hire a qualified assessor. Florida licenses mold assessors and remediators.

Florida specifics.

Florida purchases come with inspection and insurance items most Northeast buyers have never seen.

Important: Insurance underwriting rules change often and vary by carrier. Ask your insurance agent which inspections they need, and how recent they must be, before your inspection period starts.

New Jersey specifics.

Older housing stock, oil heat, and municipal rules make New Jersey due diligence its own checklist.

Important: Certificate of occupancy requirements are set locally and differ town to town. Confirm your municipality’s rules and your contract’s terms with your attorney.

Red flags “move-in ready” can hide.

None of these mean walk away. All of them mean look closer.

After the report.

Most reports are long. The goal is to sort them, not to panic.

• Prioritize: safety first, then structure, then insurability, then water, then everything else. Cosmetic items rarely belong in a repair request.
• Get licensed contractor quotes inside the window. Electrician, roofer, plumber, HVAC, or engineer — written estimates give your request credibility.
• Decide: repair request, credit, or price adjustment. Credits can be limited by your loan program, so confirm with your lender. If the seller makes repairs, require licensed and permitted work, with receipts.
• Understand your contract. Under Florida’s common “AS IS” contract, the buyer may typically cancel during the inspection period, and the seller is not obligated to make repairs. In New Jersey, inspection terms are negotiated and confirmed through your attorneys.
• Send the 4-point and wind mitigation reports to your insurance agent and confirm coverage can bind.
• Never let the window lapse by accident. Any extension must be in writing, before the deadline.
• At the final walk-through, confirm agreed repairs were completed.